Makita 7104L/2 240V Chain Mortiser

Product Information

For depth, you can plunge up to 6-1/8” and you can use the depth gauge to set the depth or your mortise. but can never find much info, Eventually I wont to build my own home with log posts and sawn timber for the frame.

The play isn’t in the bar as it’s bolted into a grooved channel and can’t move, but there seems to be a little slop in the vertical slide columns. I finally broke down and bought the Makita last year when I was building my own project I have used them off and on for years and never had a problem with the Makita mortiser . The folks over at [WayOutWest] were building a fence and needed a way to cut a bunch of mortises in 4×4 inch posts to accept 2×6 inch rails. A clear template and instructions are provided for easy fitting to your bar - just 2 holes drilled using a small drill press and 2 bolts. If the dude needs an efficient way to make mortises, he could be better served doing it the old fashioned way, and unless they’re completely enamored with their new jig – they may just conclude that it wasn’t worth the effort in the end.You can firmly attach onto timbers between 3-1/8” to 12-1/8” thickness with its large adjustable vise. majority of our projects now are CNC machined, but I still use the old mortiser when on site for modifications.

If I had my time again I think (through rose tinted glasses) I'd have liked to do this for a living. You can also adjust the sliding rear clamp to any desired width with a quick twist of the tension knob.I'm building a timber frame barn and was contemplating cutting all of the joinery by hand (I have a lot of very good quality framing chisels, Japanese saws, etc. I know some people are confident doing this kind of thing using a chainsaw, and I do have chainsaws, but I am not confident doing plunge cuts with them. I am not looking for a chain mortiser, I am looking for the type with a frame to hold the post and the guide bar attachment on the saw to do the mortises. The contraption’s frame is made from an old scaffolding stand and the slides are just pipes inside of pipes. So I am just wondering if there is something I am not aware of that will be reliably quicker than a big bit in a drill, followed by chisel and hammer work.